Now that my S2000 is little older, and so am I, oh, and Honda wanted £90 to replace the rear pads, it got me thinking “It can’t be that hard, can it?”
It’s not, so long as you you have most of the right tools, and an extra pair of hands is quite useful. It’s also nice to have the wife’s car there just in case I need to nip out in the middle of the job, oh and a copy of the service manual is pretty handy too.
Tools I used for this job:
- Axel Stands
- Trolley Jack
- New Pads (eBay, GSF Car Parts, £10 for the rear pair delivered)
- Copper Grease
- Old Chisel
- Socket Set
- Spanner Set
- Rubber Mallet
- Wheel Chocks
- Disposable Gloves (Should stop your hands getting too dirty, doesn’t always work)
Once the car is jacked up safely and the wheel removed, locate the 2 bolts holding the piston in place. You can remove the top and just loosen the bottom and then pivot it, but I found it easier to remove them both. I had a mate hold it while it was off (as you don’t want it hanging by the brake line) or you can use some string or similar to keep it suspended safely.
If it’s a bit tight, check that the handbrake isn’t on and it should just slide off the disk.
Once off, you can simply pull out the 2 old brake pads (one each side). Fit some copper grease to the back of the new pads where it will make contact with the piston and calliper and then pop them pads in there, you can use the rubber mallet to lightly tap them into place if needed.
Pop the hood and remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir, I placed newspaper all around, just in case any spilled over. This is to make it easier to compress the piston.
You can buy a special tool, but i found that an old chisel and some brute force worked just aswell (as recommended on s2ki). You basically need to pop the calliper piston back in as the new pads will be much thicker than the old ones you just removed. Using a lot of force you want to turn the X on the bottom of the piston clockwise to compress it, it will go eventually. Periodically check that the reservoir isn’t overflowing, if it’s close, you may want to drain some of the brake fluid.
Once compressed you need to make sure that the X on the bottom of the piston is horizontal with the calliper, you will notice on the new brake pad that there is a small dimple, this has to slide through the X on the bottom of the piston as you fit it, don’t worry, once you do this part it will become obvious.
With the calliper back on, pop in the 2 bolts that you removed and then you can replace the wheel. Replace the brake reservoir cap, give the brakes a quick pump and then go for a little drive to admire your handywork. Next up, rear drop links, watch this space.